• 0

    posted a message on The new raw metal textures

    Is it just me or does the new raw metal textures seem a bit too "suggestive" ?

    2 "balls" on the bottom sides of a central "thingy" seems a little bit too "family unfriendly" for my tastes.

    Posted in: Discussion
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Hi all!

    Jackpayback pinged me, so here are my replies to previous posts:

    - Temples:

    Temples were modified by Avernite in R121:

    • Witch huts, jungle pyramids, desert temples, and villages are now generated further apart
    • Jungle pyramids and desert temples are not generated within 2 km of world spawn

    - Phase Spiders:

    Anybody willing to do a few tests please write your results here:

    Test #1: Potion of Invisibility

    - Craft a Potion of Invisibility: Nether Wart, then Golden Carrot, then Fermented Spider Eye, then Redstone dust (optionnal step).

    - Try to flee a bit, check if it loses sight of you and stoops pursuing you.

    - Can the spider still see the invisible player? If yes, final result is: "FAILURE: Phase spiders can see invisible player".

    Also checks a bit if there is a "range"' at which is "starts" seeing you, or if you by being invisible are now utterly safe from it.

    - If no, try to attack it FROM THE FRONT. Did it teleport away? If no, result is "SUCCESS: Invisibility works vs phase spiders".

    - But if yes, flee again to make it lose sight of you again, then circle it and attack from the REAR this time.

    - Did it work this time? If yes, SUCCESS: "Invisibility works, but only to reach the rear".

    - But if no: "PARTIAL SUCCESS: Invisibility is good to avoid phase spider combat, but not to kill it."

    - Post your results here.


    Test #1B: Any negative potion effect applied directly:

    Potions of slowness will probably not bee useful as the phase spiders are:

    - Quite fast;

    - Can teleport anyway.

    But it might just be possible that Avernite coded it so that Slowed phase spiders can't teleport at all, or something like that.

    It might also be useful to know if they teleport as soon as ANY potions hits them

    (throwing a normal negative effect potion on the spider, tough because they move fast!)

    or any negative effect touches them (throwing a splash potion of a negative effect.

    They might be resistant to thrown items (they teleport, same as when an arrow hits them)

    but not to some effects) (thus using a splash potion might work) in which case a potion off weakness

    might allow you to just go back to attack them without wearing any armor, as they will deal 1 DMG instead of 3.

    Test #2 : Flint & Steel

    - Carry stacks of non-falling non-burnable blocks (say cobblestone), some wool, and flint & steel.

    - When hearing phase spiders, quickly fully enclose yourself in a 1x1 space in some corner that is at least 3 high.

    fill up the opposite corner first, because mobs can strike "diagonally". Don't forget "diagonals" at 1 block above your head.

    - Then dig a 3 high, 3 deep tunnel in the wall.

    - Fill up the part towards the spiders so that there is an eye-level hole, over a wool (at leg level).

    - A 2nd wool besides it, at "right under feet" level.

    - Break cobble block to allow spider to enter, immediately put wool on fire and stand at deepest end.

    - The phase spider will teleport away from the fire, but check if it takes some damage (i.e. it will die eventually) or not

    (in which case it will kill you you eventually - close off the entrance, but a better jump down from standing over it" defense.

    Test #3: Striking spider behind behind.

    When hearing phase spiders, hole up in a wall corner.

    Dig to setup a killing room like this:

    O = Air (corridor, 1 wide)

    P = Player (air, 1 wide)

    R = Air (killing room, 3 wide)

    X = Stone

    Side view



    XXOPXX <-- note how the top doesn't have any room for the spider


    SRRROO <-- entrance


    Alternatively, same principle but from bellow, with fence posts to allow sight yes allow attack while blocking the phase spider.

    - New RoninPawn server



    Is it a "zero cheating" server?

    i.e. No item duplication, even for server admins?

    I remember last server there was a huge town with huge gold blocks letters,

    that definitely did not feel like a "'MITE" server at all.

    Because IMHO, what's even the point of running a MITE server, if you're going to massively dupe items anyway?

    But congrats for putting up a server anywyay.

    - R195 server files:

    I don't have my private "2 players only" R196 server anymore.

    I have only those files:

    Client: R104, R170, R178, R192, R196.

    Server: R170, R196.

    I prefer the harder experimental version so any version I might have should be all the experimental branch.

    I will not share them myself on a public folder.

    However if anybody wants them, specify which ones, and I'll email them to Jack, so that he can put them on his downloads page.

    - R196 "unstable":

    Like kreigntheone, I also lost a fully developed world exactly like him.

    Unstablility (random game crashes) started a few months ago after there was an update of the Minecraft *LAUNCHER*.

    Well, I think. In any case it was after some big update of something.

    Despite my game and save files being on a good working SSD (thus, not a problem of "drive speed").

    Despite max Power Settings : Drive Sleep to "Never", USB selective suspend at "Disabled", Prevent any Idling, etc.

    Never had any problem before. It just started suddenly like that.

    Frequency of crashes went from once or twice none in a full multi/-hour game session (low level very minor annoyance)

    to every few minutes (grrrr!). Each time I just reloaded the game, maybe lost a few seconds of playing, no more.

    Then one day after a crash suddenly all "special" non-full blocks disappeared . Tall grass. Crops. Farm animals. Chests. Gone!

    And I was simply cutting down tall grass with shears, outside, in a plains biome. Doing nothing special!

    Since then, I leave my save folder open, I quit the game every every hour or half hour, and I make frequent savegame copies.

    Playable, but quite annoying.

    Any suggestion for a fix ???

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
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    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Taming Horses:

    Young horses:

    Young horse grow naturally over a few days of "chunk is loaded" time.

    They also grow very slightly on food bribes (early game it's just not worth it).

    Young horses that you breed yourself are born untamed.

    Preventing a wild horse from being eaten by a zombie at night:

    If there are tunnels entrances nearby, push horse away from the entrances, or block entrances with blocks.

    Free-roaming horses can flee from zombies, semi-reliably surviving zombie chases. But not always, tough.

    Making a nearby "tiny outpost" where you go to bed right at 9 o'clock, that can work, but it is a risk.

    Best approach is to simply leave the horse well before sunset and move far away so that the horse is far enough into unloaded chunks territory that even if a helmet-wearing zombie survived the night from your loaded chunks territory, it would not roam about to "find" a too-close-nearby horse.

    Preventing a horse that is in the wilderness from moving away between taming attempts:

    - Attaching horse to a Lead to a Fence will not work:

    MITE is buggy that way. Whenever chunk reloads, Leads just fall to the ground. Bummer.

    - Four 2-high pillars, placed as below:

    . = ground

    S = 2-high soft blocks (dirt, sand, or gravel)

    + = "horse enclosure"







    Not 100% perfect but very quick and cheap to do.

    - Covered hole:

    2x2 hole in ground, 3 deep. Push horse inside. Fully cover hole with inverted slabs.

    Food bribe:

    I think the various food give the horse the same "temper" (docility) bonus as in vanilla.

    So, cheapest and easiest ones are Sugar or Wheat. Everything else is a waste.


    - Odds of taming depend on horse's "docility":

    Food bribes and taming attempts both help.

    Harming the horse has a negative effect.

    - First bribing + taming attempt:

    Never "bribed" horses will flee even sooner (and faster!) from you.

    So, prepare bribing food in your active direct inventory slot in advance,

    then use "Jumping while running" to help you catch up to the horse.

    - To climb on horse, right-click from an empty Direct Inventory Slot.

    Horse will move randomly, sometimes less than a second, sometimes more than 30 seconds.

    Then one of two things happen:

    - Horse kicks you. You might also take some damage, so... don't try to tame a horse while low on life!

    - Horse stops, gives hearts animation (if particles aren't Off), and is tamed and ready to accept a Saddle.

    - Delays:

    Delay before being able to bribe again: 4000 ticks = 3 minutes 20 seconds.

    Delay before being able to ride again: 4000 ticks = 3 minutes 20 seconds.

    Best taming approach:

    When exploring, bring Saddle + food bribe, just in case you find a horse.

    Bribe with food before each taming attempt.

    Try taming 3/day: early morning, noon, late afternoon.

    In between taming attempts, leave well before sunset.

    Build horse enclosure at your main base before bringing it back home.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod
    Quote from mikeyfaa»

    How does one go about restoring the water source for a village? Their well is full of water..

    Also- horses? I have had zero luck taming them.

    - Restoring village water: Don't even bother!

    Step 1: Craft or find any Bucket.

    Step 2: Dig a 1x1x1 hole (any bigger won't work!) in a wide flat area and Ctrl + Water bucket in the hole to "drop" a Water Source in there.

    Step 3: Dig channels going 7 blocks away in 2, 3 or all 4 directions. I prefer using only 2 directions and then making another making another "9x19 rectangle" at the end to make one big simple to plant and harvest farm. Optional: cover channels with slabs or lillypads.

    Step 4: Mattock + make farmland all around the water. This outputs a more than big enough farm to feed 1 player.

    This villages "tiny farms" are more XP costly to rehydrate and are just more trouble in the long run.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod
    Quote from mikeyfaa»

    Having trouble finding Onion/onion seed to get villages to spawn.. any pointers? Can't seem to find desert or jungle temples either..

    - Temples generate at least 10000 blocks from spawn (or world center, dunno which).

    - Vegetables can be found:

    a) As a very rare zombie villager drop, which are themselves quite rare mobs. You might get luck or not, but eventually you will have killed so many mobs that you will gain a veggie sooner or later.

    Suggested to greatly increase your odds: Build a "mob killer trap" in wide & flat & as feature terrain as possible (not even your own farms), with 360 degrees sight around. Bigger bonus if you do this with several underground tunnels entrances right around your "panoramic mob killer" (tunnels that you will leave dark), for maximum mob generation. You "pop" your head or throw worthless stuff (like Snowballs) to attract mobs to your mob trap. Zero lighting outside. Very long and lengthy simple 1 wide x 2 high tunnels right underground in the dirt can also be used to "run in a huge square" to run all around you base to "attract" even more mobs to your mob trap. Basically, you can probably kill at least 5 to 10 times more nightly mobs that way, thus more odds of getting rare drops like veggies.

    B) In Dungeons. Dungeons, which are Rare, and having a veggie in a Dungeon Loot chest is also Uncommon. Again, you need luck.

    c) In Abandoned Mineshafts. Rare subterranean features under XHills biomes only. But they are so huge, it is hard to miss them. Odds of finding a veggie are even more uncommon than in Dungeons Loot Chest, but at least in an Abandoned Mineshaft you usually find not 1 or 2 but several Loot chests. Also, XHills biome is the only one with Emerald gems, allowing to have *some* magic early on. If you see an XHills biome, it is definitely worth your while to mine preferentially only in that biome.

    d) Witches often drop veggies, and with hut loot chests also often have veggies. Just explore swamps! This is the most reliable way IMHO.

    To kill a witch: pillar up 20 to 24 blocks quick to get out of her throwing potions attack range, then just shoot arrows. Easy as pie.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod


    Yeah Phase Spiders are a real pain. almost made me quit that mod, too, until I managed to kill a few.

    Nowadays they are still a major enemy, but I can manage to win most of the time. Only sucks that after each Phase spider battle i must go back to base for repairs, they really end up costing you tons of metal.

    I found out that these tricks help:

    - Play R196 or another very "late" release: it feels that they are a bit less "godly" in the later releases than when they were first introduced.

    - Unless really high level and well armored, don't take any chance, the INSTANT you hear the their teleportation sound, don't look around and immediately turn back and run far away ASAP. Come back much later wen they have despawned. Heck, even when the sound is an Enderman that is teleporting, don't waste any time "waiting" to check if you really hear the sound a 2nd time: RUN!

    - Stand in a corner, place blocks if needed. If you strike the front of the spider, it nearly always teleport away. If you can strike if from the side enough or from behind, you can kill it much more easily.

    - Stand in a spot where you can jump up (i.e. not in a spot where you hit the ceiling when you jump). You need to jump up to strike them btter, simply because it helps you strike them from the sides/back much more than striking without jumping.

    - Stand in a spot 1 high above the ground. Again, elevation provides some "angle" which makes striking them from sides/back easier.

    - Jump a LOT while striking like mad.

    - If already died once, then being very low level (1 or less) and wearing cheap armor so that you can survive more than 2 bites can allow you to EVENTUALLY get rid of them, after tons of deaths. If intending to strike back, be at least level 0 and with a sword or whatever can kill them in a single shot.

    - Standing in 2+ deep still water always work: When a spider is swimming in sufficiently deep water, it cannot teleport at all! This makes killing them trivial. Good luck finding 2 deep water, though. You can create your own "Phase Spider water trap", but it's going to end up costing you a lot of XP + digging. Ideal trap is a 1 wide tunnel, with a 1x1 "dry" (or 1 deep) spot at the end where you stand, and a 3 long tunnel for the watery area. Thus, 2 water sources with a space in between. Since to have 2-deep water you need water that "regenerates", this means also having a 3rd water source that is placed between the first two, but 1 block to the side (diagonally). bigger water areas work better.

    - Wear THORNS enchanted armor. Every phase spider attack, it will take 1 damage back, and phase spiders have very few hit points. Thus, they will quickly kill themselves trying to bite you! You can thus easily survive (albeit being damaged). Thorns is an overall very crappy enchantment (I think it "wears out" armor much faster, and metal is so so rare in MITE!), but against vs Phase Spiders, it's wonderful.

    - Run away naked at level or 1 or less while jumping as much as you can, to lead it far enough away from where it first killed you, say in a side dark corridor or even all the way to the surface and far away from the tunnels entrance. If is stops running after you, but was not pulled far enough, you again try to pull it to you even further away until it is far enough. Then you just let it kill you: even if you could escape, you're probably already half-dead and starving anyway, easier and faster to just die and respawn and that will cost you only 20 XPs. Then you go grab your stuff (might have to do it again if there were several of these damned critters there). And then go mine well away from there! But not too much: You want the chunks with the spiders to remain loaded, so that they will eventually despawn (it can take a long time). if you hear then teleporting gain, that "resets" their despawn time, which means you got too close.

    - Play with a friend! While one of you guys closes himself up in a 1x1 area where the spider can still see him but not attack him and "aggro" close to the wall (use fences, cobble walls, whatever to block their pathing but not their sight, so ... don't use slabs!), the other player remains further away to the spider than his friend is, and that means he can "semi-safely" strike from behind the spider, but from as far as possible, ideally with a scythe, because of the extra reach. Not guaranteed to work but that can helps, especially if you can move in VERY quickly, before it jumps away again (probably to attack him!).

    Completely useless tactics:

    - Trying to shoot it.

    - Trying to make it hurt itself on lava, to suffocate it with falling block, or blow it up with TNT.

    What I did not try:

    - Try to put it in fire with Flint n Steel.

    - Attack with a Scythe: having more reach than a sword might help striking it before it bites you!

    - Trying different kinds of weapons. Maybe Warhammers work better than swords? Dunno.

    - Throwing a Blindness potion at them. Since they need to "see" you to be able to teleport away, maybe this works. Only problem, is that these super-wasting-your-inventory-space-single-use potions are even further late game than permanent magical items (weird, I know).

    My own conclusion:

    Like several stuff in MITE, Phase Spiders are a very unbalanced feature.

    Some MITE features should definitely be "harder and/or costlier". For example, how sticks end up costing 10 times less wood per damage dealt than the "more advanced" Clubs, or how even chickens are the easiest to build an protect, and feed, and breed, and yet they make the most food because they lay eggs like madmen (even after the nerf).

    Phase Spiders is one just of those features that should be made easier.

    There is just no known way to "deal" with them in even a semi-reliable fashion that doesn't involve extremely hard to get prerequisites:

    - 2 deep water: Huuuuuge setup time to make a trap that will, 9 times out of 10, be too far away for you to reach before being killed anyway.

    And good luck finding a subterranean water pond that is close enough to you while you are randomly mining!

    Sure you can make a Phase Spider trap every 100 block...In that case I suggest you say goodbye to your repair-metal because digging all that will waste your warhammers fast. and your Xps, too, because at 300 XP a pop this is definitely not a cheap trap to make.

    - Thorn armor: Suuure, because magic is not very far into the game, right?

    My "balance fix" would involve some kind of non-negligible-cost "consumable" that allows striking the Phase Spiders.

    Say, you eat a semi-rare (non farmable) surface item or rare mob drop and you become "phased" for a few seconds, able to kill the spiders easily.

    And you can go explore to try to "load-up" on those consumables before going mining.

    If Avernite programmed-in a better way to defeat them, well, nobody found it yet.

    As they are though, it's a "damn flee and pray!" completely unbalanced mob.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Hi guys!

    Long time no see. Still playing R196! Less often, though.

    >>> Crops farming tips: General

    - Crops grow faster in hotter biomes, slower in colder biomes.

    - Crops will blight less in drier biomes, more in wetter biomes.

    - Crops can grow only under direct daylight, and grow faster the more direct daylight there is.

    - Direct daylight means just that: Even an overhead glass blocks will prevent growth! No greenhouse builds!

    - Torches do not help crops grow. No subterranean farming!

    Basically, Desert biome is best: Hot and arid, and it is nearly always sunny.

    - Slimes will destroy any biological matter just by touching it.

    This means trying to make a farm in a swamp is a HUGE amount of extra work,

    because you really have to wall off and light up everything in order to avoid

    potential slimes from constantly ruining your farms at night.

    Unless you are a masochist, or want to play an "extra challenging" early MITE game,

    it is far better to remain a nomad until you just exit the swamp.

    >>> Crops farming tips: Blight

    - The only crops that can blight are Wheat, Carrot, Onion, and Potato.

    - Blighted crops (paler, grayed out) usually lasts only a couple days (at most) before dying (brownish dead color).

    Blight won't spread anymore from dead crops. Dead crops, much later, eventually disappear altogether.

    >>> Crops farming tips: Sugar Cane

    Will probably be your 1st crops farm, just plant around a lake or something.

    It is better to wait until it is 3 blocks high, then harvest at eye level: for same effort, you get more yield.

    >>> Crops farming tips: Sweet Foods

    Be careful when eating sweet food as they contain SU (Sugar Units):

    1 Sugar or 1 fruit (as food or ingredients) are worth 1 SU each.

    For example, since to make a batch of 4 cookies you need to craft 1 Sugar ingredient,

    this means each Cookie is worth 1/4 SU.

    Your body has a "max capacity" of 10 SU.

    If you go beyond your limit, you gain Insulin Resistance (IR) effet.

    That effect is a minor, but quite long in duration, annoyance.

    Each day your body "progressively gets rid of" a total of 5 SU.

    Basically, just limit yourself to max 4 SU every day and you will never risk getting IR.

    Sugar also has zero real nutriments (Proteins or Phytonutrients), and, combined with the risk or IR,

    think of directly eating Sugar and fruits more like a little "something extra" that only helps you stretch

    a bit your other food, but definitely never think of those as "staple food".

    Because of this, you won't need a huge Sugar Cane farm, and only a really small (optional) Melons farm.

    Best foodstuff:

    Pumpkin Pie (128 food points per stack, zombies will not eat those, and they resist falling in water)

    but alternate each Pie with something else (if you only eat pies, eventually you will get IR).

    >>> Crops farming tips: Mushrooms

    - If you can intelligently manage your eating times with your healing and work times,

    early game red shrooms can assist to stretch your food a bit, especially once you have a Bed.

    For example, eat one at dusk right after entering your safe home, break gravel for a minute, then go to sleep.

    - Always eat at least one food worth at least 1 Satiation right before the red mushroom.

    - If low level and malnourished from lacking Phytonutrients, my usual "Red Mushroom" eating pattern is this:

    When I'm going hungry, eat 1 Seed + 1 "Phytonutrient" food (Apple, Pumpkin Soup, Salad) + 1 Red shroom,

    break gravel 1 minute, eat 2 Seed + another Red Shroom, break gravel 1 minute, go to sleep in bed.

    - Ideal red shroom farming layout:

    Plant in a grid layout 1 Oak Sapling every 6 (compact) to 9 (sparse) blocks.

    If a low tree grows, remove eye-level leaves. If a giant tree grows, cut it away.

    Plant 1 red shroom directly adjacent on each side of the tree.

    Harvest whatever else will grow.

    - Brown shrooms grow any suffficiently deep underground spot. Just plant one every 4 to 6 blocks.

    Once you have both red and browns, or browns and milk, you are in business with good soups.

    These are very useful to stretch out a lot your other "more nutriments" foodstuff.

    >>> Crops farming tips: Pumpkins and Melons

    Start a Pumpkin farm ASAP and manure that first.

    Melons are sweet (1 SU per slice), but not Pumpkins.

    Both otherwise grow very similarly.

    Every time the fruit grows, there is around 20%-25% odds of the stem dying (shown as a darker color).

    If that occurs, break Stem and replant. So, don't eat all your output, keep a few seeds around!

    Initially you can plant alongside a lake or something, max 4 distance from water, using this type of repeating pattern:

    [ ][.][ ][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [.][$][.][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][.][.][$][.][.][.][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][.][.][.][$][.][.][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][.][$][.][.][.][.][$][.][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][.][.][$][.][ ][.][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    Only the stem needs to be over farmland. In fact, tilling the surrounding space is pure waste. Leave it as dirt or grass!

    Odds of the stem dying are ***NOT*** on the fruit growing, but on each "growth attempt",

    and every "growth attempt" rolls for a random direction to place the fruit, and the fruit appears only if that direction is "valid".

    So, make sure every Stem is surrounded by 4 "valid blocks" (Grass or Dirt), otherwise you might get dead Stems without any fruit!

    Also, you'll get slower growth because sometimes more than one growth attempt are needed before the fruit appears in a valid direction.

    Add a Dirt in the water if need be to make sure of it, otherwise your output drops drastically (or even become negative).

    NEVER plant your pumpkin Stems in nice looking but super slow growth horrible output "double rows".

    If you have 100 XPs and a bucket, here is my ideal Pumpkin farm setup:

    [ ] = Grass block

    [.] = Potential Pumpkin growing spot (Grass block)

    [$] = Pumpkin Stem

    [W] = Water (Ctrl + Right-click on a 1x1 wide by 1 deep hole to place Water Source for 100 XPs)

    [ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ]

    [.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.]

    [ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

    [ ][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][ ]

    [ ][.][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

    [.][$][.][ ][ ][W][ ][ ][.][$][.]

    [ ][.][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

    [ ][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][ ]

    [ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

    [.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.]

    [ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ]

    Not as compact a design as the previous one, but very quick and simple to setup and harvest.

    >>> Crops farming tips: Blightable Crops

    Wheat, Carrots, Onions, and Potatoes.

    Only Carrots and Onions contain Phytonutrients.

    Sources of the 3 "veggies crops":

    - Zombie Villager drop (very rare)

    - Dungeon Chests (uncommon)

    - Witch drop (common)

    - Witch Hut Chest (common)

    - Till your crops field long, not wide. Much less turning around when you harvest!

    - Make sure your crop is directly on hydrated farmland.

    Maximum 4 away from water. Validate your hydration first, THEN do the tilling to farmland,

    otherwise you will lose many of the dry farmland that will convert back into Dirt.

    - Crops directly on manured farmland grow 30% faster.

    - Crops surrounded by farmland (which can be manured/hydrated or not) get a growth bonus.

    The more farmland, the better, up to double the speed when fully surrounded.

    - Crops in "straight lines" all of exactly the same crop, at least 3 long, and without crops in other directions

    (to the side or diagonally), get double growth speed. So, always plant in lines.

    For this reason, if harvesting a crop means the remaining crops in the same line aren't at least 3-long,

    it can be sometimes better to leave the adult crop there instead. Guess the growth still needed vs

    time left before Blood Moon to determine if "harvesting right now" means the 2 remaining crops won't reach adulthood.

    This means planting alongside a diagonal shore is a stupid idea. Always terraform to have longer, straighter fields.

    Also, do not plant crops in "corners" shape.

    When your field turns around a corner, always skip 1 farmland so that lines of crops that

    fall in different directions won't touch.

    - Blight propagates an order of magnitude more from adjacent crops, than by "skipping" 2 (rare) or 3 (very rare) blocks away.

    This means it is vital to leave rows of "without any crops at all" farmland in between each "planted with crops" row.

    If you plant an entire rectangular field with crops, Blight will also spread along both directions, and you'll end up losing *TONS* of crops.

    Like, a big circle of 25 instead of only 4 in a single row.

    - Early game, check your farm very, very frequently, almost daily.

    This doesn't reduce the "random" Blight, but it cuts down a lot on "Propagation" Blight.

    Later on, progressively reduce farm visits. Every 2 days, every 3, every 4, eventually

    when you have a huge farm and tons of food, only a couple time per season (to get rid of Blight)

    followed by a final full harvest right before the Blood Moon will do the job.

    - Almost everything will Blight on the Blood Moon, allow 1 or 2 days to harvest before losing everything.

    - Take advantage of the fact there is no super-Blight on Blue Moons to replant and insert an extra harvest.

    - Potatoes Blight noticeably more. Onions Blight a bit less.

    - If you have only 2 veggies of a type, be extra prudent:

    Keep Bonemeal around, and visit your farm very often to cure Blight, almost daily.

    Plant only right after the Blood moon, and plant each type completely separated.

    This is in case a creeper explodes: if you have 2 you will lose only 1, not both!


    Only once you have 4, plant your first "fast growth line" of 3 right after a blood moon,

    and the other away. Heck, it is worth it to build a WALL around a "new" crop!

    Again, this is to avoid creepers wiping all of a veggie type them all at once.

    - My ideal blightable crops farming layout:

    [.] = Grass

    [ ] = Empty Farmland

    [1] = Crop of 'Type 1', on Manured Hydrated Farmland

    [W] = Placed Water Source (100 XP) with a normal Slab above it.


    [.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

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    >>> Crops farming tips: Tools and Magic

    Break crops by hand until you have both Anvils and enough metal for repairs.

    Knife harvests Wheat somewhat quicker, Shears even better, Scythe very quickly.

    With Iron Scythe, somewhere around Level 40 or 45, you can harvest Wheat *WHILE RUNNING*.

    A Mattock harvests much quicker the 3 veggies.

    A higher quality tool will save you repair nuggets.

    - Fertility "auto-manures" farmland. Pretty useless because by the timer you get it you'll have tons of manure anyway.

    - Harvesting is relatively good on Wheat (on a Scythe), and very great on the 3 veggies (on a Mattock):

    On Wheat, you have approx +20% odds per Rank to get 1 extra Wheat.

    On veggies, your max drops increase by +1 per rank. Which is incredibly good.

    >>> Crops farming tips: First farms

    You don't have much metal yet, so AVOID using your brand new shiny first mattock to break gravel,

    and allocate it all to make more farmland.

    I personally prefer going straight to a mattock instead of a hoe, unless I really am lacking in initial metals.

    >>> Crops farming tips: Manure

    To get "more manure fast" early on to make your farm better:

    Keep your "collect dirt" jobs for rainy days.

    Anyway, when it rains, you want to not risk being far from home in case it turns into a storm.

    Break Grass blocks, not Dirt blocks (let grass regrow there later instead).

    If you are digging slowly, select Grass (blocks) that have some Grass (plant) or Fern on it.

    This gives you the plant item "for free".

    Normally, breaking Grass blocks you get Dirt 24/25 times and a Worm drop 1/25 times.

    But when the Grass block is exposed to rain, you will get Dirt 4/5 times and a Worm drop 1/5 times.

    You need those Worms. Lots of them.

    Place the worms in a Chest with things they can eat (slowly, and randomly).

    If it is a double chest, somehow the worms will eat only from "their" half of the entire chest.

    Worms do not eat anything when they are in your own inventory.

    Worms can eat a lot of plant-based stuff:

    The file usually located in "C:\Users\[yourusername]\AppData\Roaming\.minecraft\MITE\reference\item_composting.txt"

    describes what worms eat and how much manure that makes.

    Take advantage of any unneeded plant or extra food to compost them using your worms.

    It is usually more important to manure your farm ASAP, than to go fishing with your worms

    (for 3x better fishing than without worms) .

    >>> Animal farms tips: Early Game

    The one animal farm you can (and should) make early on, is the Chicken Farm.

    Carry stone slabs with you, and if you see a chicken in the wild, dig a 2 deep hole, push the chicken, and slab over the hole.

    Pillar up some gravel to highlight the location for later. Don't walk near that area near nightfall or at night.

    Then fully make your chicken farm enclosure, and *THEN* bring your first 2 chickens into it.

    Since zombies will dig to go eat chickens on Blood Moons, you need to make sure the chicken farm is "out of their reach".

    Since zombies swimming in deep waters can't dig, this is how you can avoid losing your chickens.

    Spiders will always be able to eat chickens so we have to protect from those too.

    Chickens are small, though, so you can quickly make the farm.

    This recipe is for an "as soon as possible" chicken farm.

    Find a spot that is closest to the layout below, maybe a peninsula of grass quickly dropping to 2-deep waters around it.

    Terraform it to conform it to the layout below. You want to have a 7x7 area surrounded by 2 deep water.

    That 7x7 area is mostly grass blocks, except one 3x3 corner that is 1 deep water.

    Ideally, choose a spot where the amount of blocks you will have to dig out, is slightly bigger

    than the amount of blocks you will have to place.

    With 13 logs and 1 Coal/Charcoal, Craft: 48 Planks, 4 Slabs, 6 Torches.

    Optionnally, also prepare shovels to help your terraforming job.

    [.] Grass Block

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2 Deep Water












    Add Dirt blocks right "at" the level of the top water blocks to get this:

    [.] Grass Block

    [+] Dirt Block

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2+ Deep Water












    At feet and eye level, add 44 Planks blocks, in order to get this:

    [.] Grass Block (ground)

    [#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2+ Deep Water












    Place a 3-high pillar of gravel like below, pillaring up on it.

    Dirt or sand are ok, too, but gravel is way better because, at that game stage,

    you probably still want to break some gravel, so you might as well make

    it perform "double duty": both to get nuggets AND for temporary pillars.

    Then place 2 inverted Slabs besides the pillar you are on, like below.

    Then place a torch above each inverted slab, then break the pillar to get back down.

    Then do the same thing for the second pillar: pillar up 3 blocks, 2 inverted slabs, torches, back down.

    You also place 2 torches on the ground, 1 at each middle point of each wall that's adjacent to the 2x2 inner 1-deep water.

    [.] Grass Block (ground)

    [#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2+ Deep Water

    [@] 3-high Pillar of Gravel (or Dirt or Sand)

    [$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [t] Torch on ground.












    Now all you have to do is bring the chickens in and close off the farm "entrance" with Planks.

    If you have Leads, use them, as it makes making the chickens go much faster and easier.

    Definitely use Seeds, too, but only for the last part, when you want to make the chickens follow you inside.

    Then from any grass ground corner you pillar up 2 *Sand* blocks to "exit".

    Make sure you destroy (and abandon behind you) both blocks before actually leaving the top of the wooden wall.

    Pillaring up instead of simply placing a single block is important as it will help prevent all the chickens from escaping!

    You end up with this:

    [.] Grass Block (ground)

    [#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2+ Deep Water

    [$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [t] Torch on ground.












    Every day, you throw Seeds to make the Chickens breed.

    Soon after, you add more permanent in/out accesses that require jumping to get in or out:

    [.] Grass Block (ground)

    [#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2+ Deep Water

    [e] Leg-level "exit" Plank Block

    [0] 0-high at water surface level Sand

    [c] 1-high above water Sand

    [C] 2-high above water Sand

    [$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [t] Torch on ground.

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][0][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][c][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][C][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][C][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]












    As soon as you can, you add 24 more Planks blocks to the external wall of Planks in order to make it 1 higher.

    This will prevent a single enderman placing a dirt block inside your chicken "coop" to let all your chickens suddenly flee.

    You also adjust the entrance/exit accordingly.

    [.] Grass Block (ground)

    [#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

    [1] 1 Deep Water

    [2] 2+ Deep Water

    [e] Leg-level "Exit" Plank Block

    [E] Eye-level "Exit" Plank Block

    [0] 0-high at water surface level Sand

    [c] 1-high above water Sand

    [C] 2-high above water Sand

    [3] 3-high above water Sand

    [$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

    [t] Torch on ground.

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][0][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][c][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][C][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][3][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

    [ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][3][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]












    Now you are ready to collect chicken meat and eggs. Start expanding your chicken coop soon,

    otherwise eventually having all your chicken in a 5x5 area will mean that a single lightning strike

    will kill them all in one fell swoop.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 1

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Hi guys ! Long time no see !

    PuraVidaServer, you evil beast ! You started a new world from scratch without me... again !!!

    Weren't we supposed to play on a new server world "From Day 1" together ?

    As for wasting 18 mithril on trying to enchant stuff...

    I agree that there should be *some* form of player-control for enchanting stuff.

    Maybe "rare magical reagents" (diamonds?) in a new enchanting table item slot?

    (basically anything to make you mine and explore the map, instead of shearing sheep while safe at home.)

    Still, no need to be "cheaty", because there is a built-in way to do it: Disenchant the item !

    With your 200+ sheep "wool factory", the bottleneck is the metal, much more than the XPs.

    Also, Vampiric is, hands down, THE BEST enchantment.

    Very rare to get, but priceless. Especially combined with Sharpness.

    With EVERY strike you make, gain back a fraction of the damage you dealt.

    A small fraction, but a very non-negligible fraction.

    From nearly dead, kill off 4 or 5 enemies and you're now back to full.

    Alternate way to heal relatively fast: Every 10 seconds lying in a bed (doing nothing) heals back 1 hp.

    I use that time to go make myself a sandwich or something.

    So, with only the Ender Dragon and the Wither left to "do", and the Adamantine stage to "just begun"

    (and not enough mithril for everything for 2 players yet), me and my nephew we kinda stopped that world.

    He has to return to intensive studies, while also working. So there's that.

    Also, I kinda used the "item duplication" trick to turn a single adamantine ingot and coins into tons of blocks and XPs.

    So that kinda felt "ok, big party now, game over!"

    So I started a few solo games.

    Currently in a swamp spawn with 2 with huts nearby (not all that near, I'm not cursed lol),

    with plains, jungle, forest, and ocean, not all that far off.

    Lemme tell you, farming in a swamp is a *real* challenge.

    Even if you get lucky enough to have a spot without a constant stream of green slimes

    (which destroy biological stuff merely by sliming over them... let's say, your crops),

    swamps have TONS of blight. At least 4 times more than the Plains biome.

    And when it spreads in swamps, it spread easily to 2 blocks away.

    So you instead have to put your crops on rows 1 and 4, else you get twice as much blight since it

    skips to both rows. So, you never get the full "fully surrounded by farmland" speed bonus.

    Even then it still blights tons. I still get a positive farming output, sure, but only about half as much as expected.

    Was planning to go attack the witches for their veggies,

    but I got lucky and got both potato and carrot from zombies.

    Still living in a "two entrances" near-surface natural tunnel near spawn,

    with 2 other secondary bases around, and one huge mining complex a bit away.

    I am strongly thinking about moving out to the Plains, as soon as I find a good spot with a big mining network.

    In any case, I'm ready to start a 2-player world whenever you are !

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 1

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Great news everyone !

    My and my nephew, we think we finally found out how to fight off those dreaded Phase Spiders.

    Not deeply tested yet, but, twice in a row, while slowly lighting up the Underworld with Glowstone, we had to flee from Phase Spiders, using our usual poorly-performing-but-best-available-mediocre-tactic:

    "Retreating while swinging one's sword madly for that less than 1% chance of luckily killing it, then try to find a tiny hole in a corner to have as much walls as possible around you while the Phase Spider sees you as little as possible, and pray and hope that you kill it before it kills you."

    While this occurred:

    While retreating, we jumped into a 2-blocks-deep Underworld lake. Then the Phase Spiders followed, jumping in the water and swimming after us. And then they got very quickly killed both times !

    Then we realized that, apparently (it's only a solid theory to date, though), Phase Spiders, while they *CAN* and will instantly teleport when standing in water (early on, we had tried using Water Buckets against them enough times to know that), still need to have their feet on the ground to do so. So trying to splash them or their path with a water bucket always proved futile, as they moved away instantly, then came back with a vengeance.

    However, when not walking, but actually *swimming* in deeper water (don't know if 1 block deep is enough, but in 2 blocks deep they are definitively swimming, not walking with their legs against bottom), then it seems that they *CANNOT* teleport away !

    We have to test it a bit more to be sure it works perfectly all the time, but dang, we finally seem to have an effective tactic against them ! Just flee to sufficiently deep water (or bucket-create your own if you have lots of XP to spare), and voilà, easy kill !

    Oh Yes Good Work Captain ! L:-)


    We also *finally* found a Dungeon in the Underworld! After placing down tons and tons of Glowstone around.

    Yeah, costly Glowstone. Because the Underworld has lots of: Invisible Stalkers, Shadows, and also all kinds of Slimes, which will *ALL* destroy your placed torches. So, yup, 200+ sheeps, tons and tons of wool shearing, for trading with villagers, for XP, to trade back buying Glowstone.

    Dang Dungeon didn't have any chest, though. AAAAARGH !!!!


    Thoughest enemy, according to the level of "Fear For Our Lives" that they induce in us: Bone Lords !

    Still no "trick" to effectively fight them off and kill them before they super rapidly swamp us with half a dozen Long Deads.

    Anybody knows how to fight them ? (apart from wearing Protection IV Adamantine Armor, of course).

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    I tend to wait a bit more before making a chest.

    For my 1st full Axe, I prefer to get a full stack of bowls ASAP (for more milk!), and to craft tons of wooden shovels that I try to avoid breaking. Thus not only faster gravel grinding, but also fuel for cooking meat.

    My best record is 9 days to reach Copper Pickaxe, but usually it is around 30 days.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    /skills was some feature that Avernite thought about adding, but didn't. What you see is an unremoved relic of an unfinished and disabled feature.

    Basically, it was to be a bit like this: you select a profession and level up only in that profession, but you can change profession at will (restarting at level 0 each time), retaining all the skills you previously learned. A professions system is interesting in community-oriented mods, where many players can share big jobs and with lots of player trading. But MITE is more of a "solitary survivalist" mod (or maybe in tiny teams of 2 or 3), where it is more important to be able to do everything. So Avernite didn't go with that professions idea, instead we keep on getting a flat 2% bonus per level to block breaking speed and crafting speed. Much simpler that way IMHO.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Bug found:

    Worms in a double chest will only eat food that is in their "own" half of the chest.

    Fix: If the worm eating event triggers on a double-chest, if event triggers on right half of chest then event is simply skipped/ignored.

    Worm eating events always apply to the both halves of entire contents of double-chests: the worms and what they can eat.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Avernite, for a few weeks now, when me and my cousin login to our private MITE server, we have noticed that our avatars don't have their custom skins anymore. Only the basic "Steve" skin. But when we play vanilla, all is normal as usual, so it's definitely a MITE-only thing.

    Is this normal ?

    Anybody else has this ?

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    Mithril AND adamantium anvils in under 200 days? That has to be a record at least for adamantium, probably mithril too. In my r104 world, I hit mithril anvil around day 500 or 600. As of now at day 900 or so, I only have 21 adamantium so only about 2/3 to that anvil. One thing is for sure: there is no pattern to adamantium in r104, except that it appears in incredibly rare pockets at super low level.

    Your story directly contradicts what I was told by Ouatcheur in an earlier post. He told me that in newer versions it is much harder to find metals, and that me having a mithril anvil in a mere 600 days would be laughable in newer versions. From your story, it seems to be the exact opposite. One thing is for sure: in r104, you sure aren't going to get an adamantium anvil in 185 days. Even with a server with one person constantly mining and the other generating food, I still don't think it would be possible. It's just way too rare. I personally like it that way, but I'm just confused about why he thought the newer versions had way less ores than r104 because that clearly isn't true.

    I played several R104 worlds. On *all* of these worlds, my net ore output (mining output minus the anvil and repairs costs and stuff) was always quite positive. Whenever I got "low" on ores, a single small or medium mining trip, and voilà, problem solved for a really, really long while. In the end of each of these worlds (some played a lot, some only only a little bit) I always got a lots more metal than my needs. On Gandrok, I even filled SEVERAL double-chests with metal blocks.

    I also played several R170 and r196 worlds, too. On almost *all* of these worlds, I barely break even, with a SMALL positive net output, until I finally manage to craft higher-quality armor and tools. One *one* world, I have a slightly bigger net positive output overall, but still on par with only the "weakest" output I had with any of the R104 worlds.

    Yes, it may be the luck / bad luck of the draw. not all areas have the same amount of ores, and usually one tends to stick to his mining in one single mining area. But at some point, with more and more worlds and hours played, the odds start to add up.

    I personally prefer the lower ore amount of R196 vs R104. Makes crafting those higher quality items really count for something !

    One thing I noticed: the following 3 things seem to, more often than not, go "hand in hand":

    - Volcanism (i.e. amount of lava, especially flowing lava from lava sources, more than mere lava lakes);

    - Weird-swiss-cheese-caves-ism (higher "caves & tunnels" density in very "chaotic & broken" layouts);

    - Overall amount of ores.

    So I suppose that a good place to setup is anywyere with lots of lava breaking out at the surface ?

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
  • 0

    posted a message on Minecraft Is Too Easy (MITE) Mod

    A new MITE R196 world record !

    Seed name is:

    Lapis Lazuli

    That seed is really something else ! X-Hills biome, with many animals around, tons of gravel, and lots of readily exposed Copper Veins. Right near at spawn, there is a cliff with several gravel veins, and two of those can allow you to get easy secure (albeit tiny) shelters right inside a cliff's face, but not too high, so it is easy to setup a "jump to enter" entrance.

    I managed to reach the Copper Pickaxe in only 11 days without dying even once ! But I got a few close calls there lol !

    Actually, it took a bit less than 11 days, because I actually finished a tiny bit past midnight of Day 10, probably somewhere between Midnight and 2 AM of the very beginning of Day 11. I could have finished way earlier near the beginning of day 10 instead if I didn't make a few mistakes, too. For example, I took way too much gravel near the end.

    Image 1: Crafting a SILVER Tool Bench. This is really what will propel your progress forward the most. If you craft a copper tool bench instead, you'll have to grind gravel until you accumulate 36 Copper Nuggets. With the silver one, by the time you reach 27 Copper Nuggets, you probably already have your Silver bench. So keep your silver for the bench, you can probably shave off several days that way.

    Image 2: Sweeeeet copper pickaxe crafting time !

    Image 3: Standing in my super-tiny "cliff face shelter" entrance with my brand new copper pickaxe.

    Image 4: The same, but I brightened the image.

    Some Tricks & Tactics:

    - Not bothering with seeds at all.

    - Nearly all the wood goes to wooden shovels.

    - Make 4 bowls with 1st hatchet then slowly go all the way up to 16 bowls (to milk cows).

    - Making a small clay oven early will pay off. That is the only one I made.à

    - Before oven, eat steak 1st, keep less meat for cooking later.

    - Keep only as many "nearly spent wooden shovels" as you will need to cook meat, fully break the rest.

    - A club can be very useful. Saved my life vs a skeleton, and jump-one-hit-crit on chickens makes killing them a snap.

    Posted in: Minecraft Mods
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