Minecraft Forums

I lie, messed around some more and now it's working fantastic thanks!

Do you know the commands for time in game?(So i know what time i'm loading in to) I can use /time but that only shows me the total overworld time

Edit: I'm an idiot, it says the time on the server before i click to load my character in

Actually, is there a way around the disconnection penalty? Seems silly that I can't load back in to the game after leaving

If you have a bed you should lie in to disconnect. Prior to that you can stop the server and restart it and that will rid you of the penalty.

My updating my java to the 191 version has stopped my crashes so you could probably return to single player if you wanted. What version of Java are you on.

Ah cheers!

I was using R195 but redid it as R196 because i find it a little harder. Any tips for plains growing these days? I remember farming was hard nerfed ages ago so my usual strategy of mass farms + animals doesn't really work anymore. Last time i played on 196 i just made a floating base and killed animals for meat, used flowers for salad anf offset the rest by eating seeds.

What do you find the best way to get string for the flint toolbench is?

This is gonna drive you mad but you can also use sinew, so kill a cow and covert the leather. Once you do have a flint tool bench you can make a flint knife and get string from cobwebs that you spot on the surface.

Cheers for that Didn't know about the knife for string thing either!

How do you go about actual farming on plains/desert?

What do you mean specifically?

Ah sorry, I mean what's your general strategy?

When I last played(Quite a while ago) I didn't realise that bone meal speeding up of plants was removed and only bone meal blight curing was enabled so i gave up on farming after planting my potatoes and just used salad + meat for meals.

Also, do you know much about the rune portals and combinations? I remember agessssss ago I made a portal to world spawn from my home base

I think it's 4 of the first one

Do you know any other combinations?

Click on Search....Search this thread..... and enter "Rune" and you can view all the posts about them. There is not much.

Avernite did change it when he created the underworld. Now a regular portal placed anywhere in the overworld will go to either spawn or world origin (0,0), I can't remember which. I think it has a different color to it. I haven't messed with the runes much. See below though as there was also a runegate that would take you to world origin so I don't know if that changed too.

Avernite's most revealing post is pasted below.

Runestones[/b]

A runestone can be crafted by placing an obsidian block in the center of a 3x3 crafting matrix and surrounding it with four mithril nuggets. Sixteen different runes are available and these can be cycled through by right-clicking the output slot.
Runestones are used in the construction of runegates.

Runegates[/b]

Runegates are still shrouded in mystery but the following information has been gathered about their basic operation:

1. They are formed by placing runestone blocks at the corners of a nether portal
2. They teleport those who enter them to distant locations
3. They are dangerous to use, especially for the first to enter
4. They only activate for one who is carrying no items (even armor) and who has neutral or positive experience
5. They teleport you far away from world spawn
6. Their destination is determined by the four runestones placed at the corners
7. A runegate that uses 4 "Uus" runestones (the first one, looks like an 'N' - I think of them as "null" gates) will teleport you back to world origin (0,0).
8. Because of points 6 and 7 runegates may be networked even though they are one-way (a second gate must be constructed on the other side
9. Originally they were designed to allow new players to have a pristine start on aged servers, as you said. Currently, since a player cannot take items through a runegate they face the challenge of building another runegate from scratch if they want to get back home (an enderman chest may help with this).
10. Most of them will take you a couple thousand km from world spawn.The runestones are combined to form a seed from which a pseudo-random destination is determined and their order does matter, so ABCD will not have the same destination as DCBA.

Quote from HarryzoChance»

Cheers for that Didn't know about the knife for string thing either!

How do you go about actual farming on plains/desert?

Ouatcheur somehow figured out the best farming method combining vanilla growth rates and incorporating MITE's mechanics and blight.

1. Growth rate is impacted by the biome, same as vanilla, desert being the fastest, extreme hills and snowy biomes being the slowest
2. Obviously having it manured speeds up growth
3. Having the particular ploughed spot surrounded by other ploughed spots (i.e. the 8 blocks around the target block) speeds up growth (not sure if manuring those spots improves the speed).
4. Growth is sped up by having the same type of plant planted beside it (a MITE feature).

As a result the best growth will be to start with an empty ploughed row, then a row planted with all the same crop and then another empty ploughed row, then your next row planted, again, with all the same type of plant (but doesn't need to be the same plant as the one in the 1st planted row). Your final row whenever you decide to stop will be an unplanted row.

So if U is unplanted and P is planted you will have rows like this:

U,P,U,P,U,P,U,P,U.

Again P could be a row of wheat, carrots, etc as long as the row is all the same plant.

The reason you leave the unplanted rows is so you limit the outbreak of blight. It does have a bit of a time penalty I presume as the fastest growth would come from having all 8 blocks surrounding your target block planted with the same plant as you have in the target block. In the above example any planted block will have 8 ploughed blocks around it but only 2 of them planted.

I guess you could fill every row as long as you were willing to check the field maybe twice daily (morning and evening) to catch blight early.

I believe potatoes are the most susceptible to blight.

Sorry, been meaning to reply, just been busy

Cheers for the advice! Currently in a desert temple, just dug down to bedrock and about to build a portal!

Any Underworld tips? What creatures are on the surface? I saw spiders and creepers

Hi guys!

Long time no see. Still playing R196! Less often, though.

>>> Crops farming tips: General

- Crops grow faster in hotter biomes, slower in colder biomes.

- Crops will blight less in drier biomes, more in wetter biomes.

- Crops can grow only under direct daylight, and grow faster the more direct daylight there is.

- Direct daylight means just that: Even an overhead glass blocks will prevent growth! No greenhouse builds!

- Torches do not help crops grow. No subterranean farming!

Basically, Desert biome is best: Hot and arid, and it is nearly always sunny.

- Slimes will destroy any biological matter just by touching it.

This means trying to make a farm in a swamp is a HUGE amount of extra work,

because you really have to wall off and light up everything in order to avoid

potential slimes from constantly ruining your farms at night.

Unless you are a masochist, or want to play an "extra challenging" early MITE game,

it is far better to remain a nomad until you just exit the swamp.

>>> Crops farming tips: Blight

- The only crops that can blight are Wheat, Carrot, Onion, and Potato.

- Blighted crops (paler, grayed out) usually lasts only a couple days (at most) before dying (brownish dead color).

Blight won't spread anymore from dead crops. Dead crops, much later, eventually disappear altogether.

>>> Crops farming tips: Sugar Cane

Will probably be your 1st crops farm, just plant around a lake or something.

It is better to wait until it is 3 blocks high, then harvest at eye level: for same effort, you get more yield.

>>> Crops farming tips: Sweet Foods

Be careful when eating sweet food as they contain SU (Sugar Units):

1 Sugar or 1 fruit (as food or ingredients) are worth 1 SU each.

For example, since to make a batch of 4 cookies you need to craft 1 Sugar ingredient,

this means each Cookie is worth 1/4 SU.

Your body has a "max capacity" of 10 SU.

If you go beyond your limit, you gain Insulin Resistance (IR) effet.

That effect is a minor, but quite long in duration, annoyance.

Each day your body "progressively gets rid of" a total of 5 SU.

Basically, just limit yourself to max 4 SU every day and you will never risk getting IR.

Sugar also has zero real nutriments (Proteins or Phytonutrients), and, combined with the risk or IR,

think of directly eating Sugar and fruits more like a little "something extra" that only helps you stretch

a bit your other food, but definitely never think of those as "staple food".

Because of this, you won't need a huge Sugar Cane farm, and only a really small (optional) Melons farm.

Best foodstuff:

Pumpkin Pie (128 food points per stack, zombies will not eat those, and they resist falling in water)

but alternate each Pie with something else (if you only eat pies, eventually you will get IR).

>>> Crops farming tips: Mushrooms

- If you can intelligently manage your eating times with your healing and work times,

early game red shrooms can assist to stretch your food a bit, especially once you have a Bed.

For example, eat one at dusk right after entering your safe home, break gravel for a minute, then go to sleep.

- Always eat at least one food worth at least 1 Satiation right before the red mushroom.

- If low level and malnourished from lacking Phytonutrients, my usual "Red Mushroom" eating pattern is this:

When I'm going hungry, eat 1 Seed + 1 "Phytonutrient" food (Apple, Pumpkin Soup, Salad) + 1 Red shroom,

break gravel 1 minute, eat 2 Seed + another Red Shroom, break gravel 1 minute, go to sleep in bed.

- Ideal red shroom farming layout:

Plant in a grid layout 1 Oak Sapling every 6 (compact) to 9 (sparse) blocks.

If a low tree grows, remove eye-level leaves. If a giant tree grows, cut it away.

Plant 1 red shroom directly adjacent on each side of the tree.

Harvest whatever else will grow.

- Brown shrooms grow any suffficiently deep underground spot. Just plant one every 4 to 6 blocks.

Once you have both red and browns, or browns and milk, you are in business with good soups.

These are very useful to stretch out a lot your other "more nutriments" foodstuff.

>>> Crops farming tips: Pumpkins and Melons

Start a Pumpkin farm ASAP and manure that first.

Melons are sweet (1 SU per slice), but not Pumpkins.

Both otherwise grow very similarly.

Every time the fruit grows, there is around 20%-25% odds of the stem dying (shown as a darker color).

If that occurs, break Stem and replant. So, don't eat all your output, keep a few seeds around!

Initially you can plant alongside a lake or something, max 4 distance from water, using this type of repeating pattern:

[ ][.][ ][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[.][$][.][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][.][.][$][.][.][.][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][.][.][.][$][.][.][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][.][$][.][.][.][.][$][.][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][.][.][$][.][ ][.][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

Only the stem needs to be over farmland. In fact, tilling the surrounding space is pure waste. Leave it as dirt or grass!

Odds of the stem dying are ***NOT*** on the fruit growing, but on each "growth attempt",

and every "growth attempt" rolls for a random direction to place the fruit, and the fruit appears only if that direction is "valid".

So, make sure every Stem is surrounded by 4 "valid blocks" (Grass or Dirt), otherwise you might get dead Stems without any fruit!

Also, you'll get slower growth because sometimes more than one growth attempt are needed before the fruit appears in a valid direction.

Add a Dirt in the water if need be to make sure of it, otherwise your output drops drastically (or even become negative).

NEVER plant your pumpkin Stems in nice looking but super slow growth horrible output "double rows".

If you have 100 XPs and a bucket, here is my ideal Pumpkin farm setup:

[ ] = Grass block

[.] = Potential Pumpkin growing spot (Grass block)

[$] = Pumpkin Stem

[W] = Water (Ctrl + Right-click on a 1x1 wide by 1 deep hole to place Water Source for 100 XPs)

[ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ]

[.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.]

[ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

[ ][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][ ]

[ ][.][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

[.][$][.][ ][ ][W][ ][ ][.][$][.]

[ ][.][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

[ ][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][ ]

[ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ][.][ ]

[.][$][.][ ][.][$][.][ ][.][$][.]

[ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ][ ][ ][.][ ]

Not as compact a design as the previous one, but very quick and simple to setup and harvest.

>>> Crops farming tips: Blightable Crops

Wheat, Carrots, Onions, and Potatoes.

Only Carrots and Onions contain Phytonutrients.

Sources of the 3 "veggies crops":

- Zombie Villager drop (very rare)

- Dungeon Chests (uncommon)

- Witch drop (common)

- Witch Hut Chest (common)

- Till your crops field long, not wide. Much less turning around when you harvest!

- Make sure your crop is directly on hydrated farmland.

Maximum 4 away from water. Validate your hydration first, THEN do the tilling to farmland,

otherwise you will lose many of the dry farmland that will convert back into Dirt.

- Crops directly on manured farmland grow 30% faster.

- Crops surrounded by farmland (which can be manured/hydrated or not) get a growth bonus.

The more farmland, the better, up to double the speed when fully surrounded.

- Crops in "straight lines" all of exactly the same crop, at least 3 long, and without crops in other directions

(to the side or diagonally), get double growth speed. So, always plant in lines.

For this reason, if harvesting a crop means the remaining crops in the same line aren't at least 3-long,

it can be sometimes better to leave the adult crop there instead. Guess the growth still needed vs

time left before Blood Moon to determine if "harvesting right now" means the 2 remaining crops won't reach adulthood.

This means planting alongside a diagonal shore is a stupid idea. Always terraform to have longer, straighter fields.

Also, do not plant crops in "corners" shape.

When your field turns around a corner, always skip 1 farmland so that lines of crops that

fall in different directions won't touch.

- Blight propagates an order of magnitude more from adjacent crops, than by "skipping" 2 (rare) or 3 (very rare) blocks away.

This means it is vital to leave rows of "without any crops at all" farmland in between each "planted with crops" row.

If you plant an entire rectangular field with crops, Blight will also spread along both directions, and you'll end up losing *TONS* of crops.

Like, a big circle of 25 instead of only 4 in a single row.

- Early game, check your farm very, very frequently, almost daily.

This doesn't reduce the "random" Blight, but it cuts down a lot on "Propagation" Blight.

Later on, progressively reduce farm visits. Every 2 days, every 3, every 4, eventually

when you have a huge farm and tons of food, only a couple time per season (to get rid of Blight)

followed by a final full harvest right before the Blood Moon will do the job.

- Almost everything will Blight on the Blood Moon, allow 1 or 2 days to harvest before losing everything.

- Take advantage of the fact there is no super-Blight on Blue Moons to replant and insert an extra harvest.

- Potatoes Blight noticeably more. Onions Blight a bit less.

- If you have only 2 veggies of a type, be extra prudent:

Keep Bonemeal around, and visit your farm very often to cure Blight, almost daily.

Plant only right after the Blood moon, and plant each type completely separated.

This is in case a creeper explodes: if you have 2 you will lose only 1, not both!

IN ANY CASE DO NOT PLANT THEM ADJACENT.

Only once you have 4, plant your first "fast growth line" of 3 right after a blood moon,

and the other away. Heck, it is worth it to build a WALL around a "new" crop!

Again, this is to avoid creepers wiping all of a veggie type them all at once.

- My ideal blightable crops farming layout:

[.] = Grass

[ ] = Empty Farmland

[1] = Crop of 'Type 1', on Manured Hydrated Farmland

[W] = Placed Water Source (100 XP) with a normal Slab above it.

[.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

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[.][1][ ][2][ ][W][ ][4][ ][5][.]

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[.][1][ ][2][ ][W][ ][4][ ][5][.]

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[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][W][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][1][ ][2][ ][3][ ][4][ ][5][.]

[.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][.]

>>> Crops farming tips: Tools and Magic

Break crops by hand until you have both Anvils and enough metal for repairs.

Knife harvests Wheat somewhat quicker, Shears even better, Scythe very quickly.

With Iron Scythe, somewhere around Level 40 or 45, you can harvest Wheat *WHILE RUNNING*.

A Mattock harvests much quicker the 3 veggies.

A higher quality tool will save you repair nuggets.

- Fertility "auto-manures" farmland. Pretty useless because by the timer you get it you'll have tons of manure anyway.

- Harvesting is relatively good on Wheat (on a Scythe), and very great on the 3 veggies (on a Mattock):

On Wheat, you have approx +20% odds per Rank to get 1 extra Wheat.

On veggies, your max drops increase by +1 per rank. Which is incredibly good.

>>> Crops farming tips: First farms

You don't have much metal yet, so AVOID using your brand new shiny first mattock to break gravel,

and allocate it all to make more farmland.

I personally prefer going straight to a mattock instead of a hoe, unless I really am lacking in initial metals.

>>> Crops farming tips: Manure

To get "more manure fast" early on to make your farm better:

Keep your "collect dirt" jobs for rainy days.

Anyway, when it rains, you want to not risk being far from home in case it turns into a storm.

Break Grass blocks, not Dirt blocks (let grass regrow there later instead).

If you are digging slowly, select Grass (blocks) that have some Grass (plant) or Fern on it.

This gives you the plant item "for free".

Normally, breaking Grass blocks you get Dirt 24/25 times and a Worm drop 1/25 times.

But when the Grass block is exposed to rain, you will get Dirt 4/5 times and a Worm drop 1/5 times.

You need those Worms. Lots of them.

Place the worms in a Chest with things they can eat (slowly, and randomly).

If it is a double chest, somehow the worms will eat only from "their" half of the entire chest.

Worms do not eat anything when they are in your own inventory.

Worms can eat a lot of plant-based stuff:

The file usually located in "C:\Users\[yourusername]\AppData\Roaming\.minecraft\MITE\reference\item_composting.txt"

describes what worms eat and how much manure that makes.

Take advantage of any unneeded plant or extra food to compost them using your worms.

It is usually more important to manure your farm ASAP, than to go fishing with your worms

(for 3x better fishing than without worms) .

>>> Animal farms tips: Early Game

The one animal farm you can (and should) make early on, is the Chicken Farm.

Carry stone slabs with you, and if you see a chicken in the wild, dig a 2 deep hole, push the chicken, and slab over the hole.

Pillar up some gravel to highlight the location for later. Don't walk near that area near nightfall or at night.

Then fully make your chicken farm enclosure, and *THEN* bring your first 2 chickens into it.

Since zombies will dig to go eat chickens on Blood Moons, you need to make sure the chicken farm is "out of their reach".

Since zombies swimming in deep waters can't dig, this is how you can avoid losing your chickens.

Spiders will always be able to eat chickens so we have to protect from those too.

Chickens are small, though, so you can quickly make the farm.

This recipe is for an "as soon as possible" chicken farm.

Find a spot that is closest to the layout below, maybe a peninsula of grass quickly dropping to 2-deep waters around it.

Terraform it to conform it to the layout below. You want to have a 7x7 area surrounded by 2 deep water.

That 7x7 area is mostly grass blocks, except one 3x3 corner that is 1 deep water.

Ideally, choose a spot where the amount of blocks you will have to dig out, is slightly bigger

than the amount of blocks you will have to place.

With 13 logs and 1 Coal/Charcoal, Craft: 48 Planks, 4 Slabs, 6 Torches.

Optionnally, also prepare shovels to help your terraforming job.

[.] Grass Block

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2 Deep Water

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

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[2][2][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][2][2]

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[2][2][.][.][.][.][1][1][1][2][2]

[2][2][.][.][.][.][1][1][1][2][2]

[2][2][.][.][.][.][1][1][1][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

Add Dirt blocks right "at" the level of the top water blocks to get this:

[.] Grass Block

[+] Dirt Block

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2+ Deep Water

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][2][2]

[2][2][.][.][.][.][.][.][.][2][2]

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[2][2][.][.][.][.][1][1][+][2][2]

[2][2][.][.][.][.][1][1][+][2][2]

[2][2][.][.][.][.][+][+][+][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

At feet and eye level, add 44 Planks blocks, in order to get this:

[.] Grass Block (ground)

[#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2+ Deep Water

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][#][#][#][#][#][#][#][2][2]

[2][2][#][.][.][.][.][.][#][2][2]

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[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

Place a 3-high pillar of gravel like below, pillaring up on it.

Dirt or sand are ok, too, but gravel is way better because, at that game stage,

you probably still want to break some gravel, so you might as well make

it perform "double duty": both to get nuggets AND for temporary pillars.

Then place 2 inverted Slabs besides the pillar you are on, like below.

Then place a torch above each inverted slab, then break the pillar to get back down.

Then do the same thing for the second pillar: pillar up 3 blocks, 2 inverted slabs, torches, back down.

You also place 2 torches on the ground, 1 at each middle point of each wall that's adjacent to the 2x2 inner 1-deep water.

[.] Grass Block (ground)

[#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2+ Deep Water

[@] 3-high Pillar of Gravel (or Dirt or Sand)

[$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[t] Torch on ground.

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][#][#][#][#][#][#][#][2][2]

[2][2][#][.][.][.][.][.][#][2][2]

[2][2][#][.][$][@][$][.][#][2][2]

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[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

Now all you have to do is bring the chickens in and close off the farm "entrance" with Planks.

If you have Leads, use them, as it makes making the chickens go much faster and easier.

Definitely use Seeds, too, but only for the last part, when you want to make the chickens follow you inside.

Then from any grass ground corner you pillar up 2 *Sand* blocks to "exit".

Make sure you destroy (and abandon behind you) both blocks before actually leaving the top of the wooden wall.

Pillaring up instead of simply placing a single block is important as it will help prevent all the chickens from escaping!

You end up with this:

[.] Grass Block (ground)

[#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2+ Deep Water

[$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[t] Torch on ground.

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

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[2][2][#][.][.][.][.][.][#][2][2]

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[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

Every day, you throw Seeds to make the Chickens breed.

Soon after, you add more permanent in/out accesses that require jumping to get in or out:

[.] Grass Block (ground)

[#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2+ Deep Water

[e] Leg-level "exit" Plank Block

[0] 0-high at water surface level Sand

[c] 1-high above water Sand

[C] 2-high above water Sand

[$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[t] Torch on ground.

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][0][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][c][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][C][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][C][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

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[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

As soon as you can, you add 24 more Planks blocks to the external wall of Planks in order to make it 1 higher.

This will prevent a single enderman placing a dirt block inside your chicken "coop" to let all your chickens suddenly flee.

You also adjust the entrance/exit accordingly.

[.] Grass Block (ground)

[#] Plank Block (feet + eye levels)

[1] 1 Deep Water

[2] 2+ Deep Water

[e] Leg-level "Exit" Plank Block

[E] Eye-level "Exit" Plank Block

[0] 0-high at water surface level Sand

[c] 1-high above water Sand

[C] 2-high above water Sand

[3] 3-high above water Sand

[$] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a Grass at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[&] Inverted Slab with 2 Air blocks under it then a 1-Deep Water block at 'ground' level, + Torch.

[t] Torch on ground.

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][0][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][c][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][C][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][3][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[ ][ ][ ][ ][ ][3][ ][ ][ ][ ][ ]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

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[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

[2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2][2]

Now you are ready to collect chicken meat and eggs. Start expanding your chicken coop soon,

otherwise eventually having all your chicken in a 5x5 area will mean that a single lightning strike

will kill them all in one fell swoop.

Informative as always Ouatcheur,

Can you insert dirt into a desert biome for a floor that can be bonemealed and have a chicken/cow pen on desert that's workable with water?

Do you know the deal with a server in regards to crops growing and animals regaining milk etc, my farm is just out of line of sight from my base and it doesn't seem to grow much or at all unless I'm around the area?

I apparently have everything i need to spawn a village now, do i just go to a plains that i haven't been to before? Or will a village spawn in any biome?

Quote from HarryzoChance»

Informative as always Ouatcheur,

Can you insert dirt into a desert biome for a floor that can be bonemealed and have a chicken/cow pen on desert that's workable with water? Yes you can. You will find that when you bonemeal the grass you will get flowers unique to that biome, I believe it is orchids in the desert. You will need to plant a tuft of grass to get the grass started.

Do you know the deal with a server in regards to crops growing and animals regaining milk etc, my farm is just out of line of sight from my base and it doesn't seem to grow much or at all unless I'm around the area? Not sure. Ouatcheur can post a dissertation on this one.

I apparently have everything i need to spawn a village now, do i just go to a plains that i haven't been to before? Or will a village spawn in any biome? You can spawn one anywhere so live in the desert. No rain is a wonderful thing. If you can have it on the boundary with another biome then you can still take advantage of rain if you need it (worms) and thunderstorms (gunpowder with your Looting III sword).

Is there a difference in performance between a emerald or diamond enchanter?

Can Lapis Lazul be used for anything?

What's the best use of redstone other than compass/map/watch?

Is the otherworld just a luck portal like the underworld? Like hope for a cave spawn? I spawned in a large clear area and automatically died. Should i just go 1000 blocks away, dig down and try again?