Try making raised mounds that hold wires. They look like decoration, but when a torch is placed in front of the door it triggers the wire which triggers a backup door or trap or whatever you feel like.
And that backup door is STILL susceptible to the same problem... We need to find a real solution to this...
Hmm... As a suggestion: Perhaps lengthening the wires that connect the levers to the door would perhaps free us space?
What we really need is an update that only lets things take outputs from one source. Preferably the one first connected to it.
Lengthening the wires to free up space would not help this situation at all.
Your second suggestion there is EXACTLY what we need though. The problem is defining that source. My wire that I use to open the door is off most of the time, so that the door stays shut. If that wire is off, how does the door know to count it as an input? That wire being off allow the door to behave exactly the same.
If you flipped it around so that having your switch wire OFF opened the door, you could be permanently locked in by anybody outside with a torch.
What I meant by the first (Sorry that I never actually finished the idea...) Was to Allow it to have room for the wires on the blocks idea you came up with in your reply. It'd be doable but who knows how effective it would be?
EDIT:
Your second suggestion there is EXACTLY what we need though. The problem is defining that source. My wire that I use to open the door is off most of the time, so that the door stays shut. If that wire is off, how does the door know to count it as an input? That wire being off allow the door to behave exactly the same.
Well, the wire first connected to it would be the first source. No matter which state it's in it should be locked to it.
place the door from a different angle so that when placed it is already open so having a input closes it then inverse the lock input so it turns off when the correct code is inputted and so that if they but a torch bye it it would just lock the door
also putting sand on top of it with a inverted wire on top so that if the door is broken the sand drops breaking the connection setting of a trap
place the door from a different angle so that when placed it is already open so having a input closes it then inverse the lock input so it turns off when the correct code is inputted and so that if they but a torch bye it it would just lock the door
also putting sand on top of it with a inverted wire on top so that if the door is broken the sand drops breaking the connection setting of a trap
So... Basically have a NO gate that would inverse the input which would go the the door that was originally "open" due to placement? In this sense, wouldn't the input just do a NO-NO style input and just do what it would normally do?
place the door from a different angle so that when placed it is already open so having a input closes it then inverse the lock input so it turns off when the correct code is inputted and so that if they but a torch bye it it would just lock the door
also putting sand on top of it with a inverted wire on top so that if the door is broken the sand drops breaking the connection setting of a trap
So... Basically have a NO gate that would inverse the input which would go the the door that was originally "open" due to placement? In this sense, wouldn't the input just do a NO-NO style input and just do what it would normally do?
It ends up working more like an OR gate, the problem being that it can easily lock you inside with no way out other than to physically tear down the door(s)
Edit: Unless you of course can access your circuitry from inside your vault, which is probably the safest way to do it.
So tomorrow, I'll be making a combination lock as a proof of concept for using highly compressed (N)AND gates. How many bits should it have? Anything less than 9000 please.
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Contains Pachebel's Canon made with noteblocks, a working Rubik's cube made with pistons, and the ultimate TNT cannon.
So tomorrow, I'll be making a combination lock as a proof of concept for using highly compressed (N)AND gates. How many bits should it have? Anything less than 9000 please.
I think having anything more than 16 bits is probably overkill, so you should probably go ahead and do 32 :biggrin.gif:
Can anybody think of a layout that would prevent this and still allow entry through the door?
Simple: face the door so that when it receives power, it will close, and when it has no power, it will open, then use a NOT gate on your lever mechanism.
Simple D-Latch based around the 2-block S/R latch posted. I'll do up a full diagram some time. The long lower-most line is just an output, not part of the gate. If I missed a better design, oops http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/ ... Follow.jpg
Logic Gates take one or more binary inputs and output one or more binary signals on multiple lines based on those inputs and their internal states. Look up the concept of a state Machine
Well I finished my 2 bit full adder, I feel pretty behind. I ended up using NBTedit to get my materials, and I dug an mote around the circuitry to keep animals out. I'm pretty sure I made this more complicated than it needs to be, but I was sure to make it expandable, and I'm pretty happy with it.
The doors are output, the 3rd one is just the carry over, I could get rid of it and add another full adder to make it 3 bit. Maybe a video if anyone actually shows interest.
I already made a programmable-from-the-inside combination lock. You can program it from the inside, by putting what you would put outside on the inside part. It's on page 6.
The thing is, mine works off buttons, while yours uses switches. Yours can be opened through easy trial and error, mine really can't, since buttons at their face have no indication of "on" or "off".
I think that I might be able to re-work ZarroTsu's button systems into a lock, though the combo would be hard to change without re-wiring
Reworking the Combo should be easy if you read the diagram logically from how each signal moves. As demonstrated on the wiki, the bit memory can be as small as
(I think?). My diagram simply has wires between this (Top of the diagram is an example of a single, two-button on/off bit), which is more for personal reading than useful space conservation.
...Man, houses are going to be bulky as hell when we string electrical powders around them, eh? I'll have a hayday making a working electric system when torches, or a new light source, are inclusive on the electric diagram.
And that backup door is STILL susceptible to the same problem... We need to find a real solution to this...
What I meant by the first (Sorry that I never actually finished the idea...) Was to Allow it to have room for the wires on the blocks idea you came up with in your reply. It'd be doable but who knows how effective it would be?
EDIT:
Well, the wire first connected to it would be the first source. No matter which state it's in it should be locked to it.
also putting sand on top of it with a inverted wire on top so that if the door is broken the sand drops breaking the connection setting of a trap
So... Basically have a NO gate that would inverse the input which would go the the door that was originally "open" due to placement? In this sense, wouldn't the input just do a NO-NO style input and just do what it would normally do?
It ends up working more like an OR gate, the problem being that it can easily lock you inside with no way out other than to physically tear down the door(s)
Edit: Unless you of course can access your circuitry from inside your vault, which is probably the safest way to do it.
Contains Pachebel's Canon made with noteblocks, a working Rubik's cube made with pistons, and the ultimate TNT cannon.
I think having anything more than 16 bits is probably overkill, so you should probably go ahead and do 32 :biggrin.gif:
Simple: face the door so that when it receives power, it will close, and when it has no power, it will open, then use a NOT gate on your lever mechanism.
Putting a torch next to it will close it then.
EDIT: it appears I'm late to the punch.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/ ... Follow.jpg
Also, Wiring Diagram. Lighter coloured wires/blocks are the raised ones: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/ ... DLatch.png
Logic Gates take one or more binary inputs and output one or more binary signals on multiple lines based on those inputs and their internal states. Look up the concept of a state Machine
The doors are output, the 3rd one is just the carry over, I could get rid of it and add another full adder to make it 3 bit. Maybe a video if anyone actually shows interest.
http://joshblog.net/projects/logic-gate-simulator/Logicly.html
*edit* screenshot
I love you.
Edit: If it had buttons (the kind in MC) it'd be perfect. As it is it's amazing for testing circuits before trying to implement them.
The thing is, mine works off buttons, while yours uses switches. Yours can be opened through easy trial and error, mine really can't, since buttons at their face have no indication of "on" or "off".
Reworking the Combo should be easy if you read the diagram logically from how each signal moves. As demonstrated on the wiki, the bit memory can be as small as
(I think?). My diagram simply has wires between this (Top of the diagram is an example of a single, two-button on/off bit), which is more for personal reading than useful space conservation.
...Man, houses are going to be bulky as hell when we string electrical powders around them, eh? I'll have a hayday making a working electric system when torches, or a new light source, are inclusive on the electric diagram.